Into the Wild West Coast
The West Coast of the South Island stretches over 600km of coastline, a dramatic frontier of black sand beaches, dense rainforests, and the towering Southern Alps. Visitors are drawn to its primal allure where wild swells batter the coast, and ancient glaciers hang in the valleys above. It’s a place that visitors to New Zealand love to experience—and all photographers are drawn to.
Here, Stephan takes us to his favourite West Coast photography locations.
01 Swamp Forest
The mesmerising swamp forest of Ship Creek is located just 20km north of Haast. I captured Swamp Forest a few years ago and it became the first West Coast piece to make it into the gallery. Since then, it has gone on to become one of my most popular works.
It is a captivating location, shrouded in the towering kahikatea trees, which can live for over 500 years. The landscape of Ship Creek is a mix of swamp forests, rugged mountains and windswept coast facing the Tasman Sea. I have a fondness for this piece because it is so serene, yet the West Coast is such a wild place.
Swamp Forest
02 Lake Paringa
Thirty minutes north of Ship Creek, you will find Lake Paringa, the remnant of an ancient glacier that passed by many thousands of years ago. I’ve made it a ritual that every time I pass Lake Paringa, I stop and set up my camera—same spot, same lens! Sometimes the results are okay, sometimes they are spectacular. It’s a gamble with nature, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Lake Paringa with a 5-minute exposure on a classic wet and misty West Coast day.
Same location, very different weather.
03 Bruce Bay
At Bruce Bay, the road runs right alongside the beach, and I have the rare luxury of scoping the best location to set up the camera from my car. There’s a lot to love about this stretch of the West Coast, but for me it makes my favourites list because of the unique sight of the rimu forest running directly down to the beach.
Bruce Bay embodies the raw, windswept spirit of the West Coast, and I think it is a must-see stop when you are travelling in the area.
Bruce Bay … coming soon
04 Lake Matheson
While Fox Glacier is one of the most popular stops along the West Coast, Lake Matheson would have to be the most popular stop at Fox Glacier. It is also a pilgrimage for photographers! You will rarely find yourself alone at Lake Matheson, even if you arrive before sunrise.
My go-to spot is Reflection Island, prime real estate for capturing the perfect frame. It is an easy (and beautiful) 20-minute walk from the café to the other side of the lake to get the famous view back to Mt Tasman and Aoraki/Mt Cook.
You have to arrive early to get the top spot in the corner.
Lake Matheson with its ever-present Canadian geese.
05 Gillespies Lagoon
For a quieter experience, though, I love to escape to Gillespies Lagoon. It’s a 20km drive along a gravel road and then a half-hour hike along a rocky beach. I have made a few visits here and the only inhabitants I run into are the local seals at Gillespies Point/Kohaiahi. Don’t worry, I always respect their space and keep my distance.
Gillespies Lagoon, and above the making of.
06 Kahikatea
North of Franz Josef, Lake Wahapo/Wahapako offers a striking view of the old kahikatea trees lining its shores. These giants, part of a once-expansive forest, are often perfectly reflected on the still water. It’s a peaceful spot, made even better with a camera in hand, of course.
Kahikatea trees at Lake Wahapo/Wahapako just before sunrise
07 Lake Brunner
One of my recent West Coast trips took me to Lake Brunner, where my plan was to capture a shot on the southern side of the lake with the sunrise behind Mt Te Kinga. After arriving from Fox Glacier, I had some time in the afternoon to scout and I ended up wandering to Cashmere Bay on the opposite side of the lake and finding an empty beach framed by kahikatea trees.
With time to spare, I set up under a near-blue sky—not ideal for me—but within hours, the weather shifted and the clouds moved in. The sky turned grey before breaking just enough for a stunning sunset at this unexpected spot. Sometimes, it just takes a little bit of luck.
Lake Brunner: from blue sky to complete cloud cover in 45 minutes.
Fast-moving clouds with the perfect sunset.
The next morning, I headed to my original destination, Swan Bay. Not surprisingly, there are hundreds of swans at Swan Bay. My hopes for a photoshoot here were dashed by bad weather, which arrived earlier than the forecast predicted. I went for a 10-minute exposure to speed up the clouds for more drama and a good result, although the swans disappeared.
Lake Brunner on a beautiful grey West Coast day.
08 Punakaiki
Finally, Punakaiki’s Pancake Rocks—a unique limestone formation formed 30 million years ago. At high tide, the blowholes come alive, and seagulls dart through the spray. It’s a standout stop along the 500km West Coast drive, a place of raw energy. Timing the shot with the tide and framing the birds in motion took a steady hand and quick adjustments.
Punakaiki
The best thing about the West Coast is that there’s always more to uncover. So, I’ll be back, camera in hand, chasing the next moment of perfection.